plans

[metiz]

Ok this is a newby questions but could someone please provide me with the plans for a small 1- 3ish pounds linear, coneless (ie square tube cc, no choke ) engine?. Kind of embaresed to say but.....*kuch*....I....ehmm...stillcan'tdesignmyownengines OK! so some one, please?

[Mike Everman]

No cones. hmmmm If you could live with one cone, then my pocket jet would be good for 3.5 Lb. My only "coneless" ones are the muffler shop special and the pipewood. Pipewood is about 1.25 lb thrust, muffler shop is probably 4, but I haven't measured it.

[metiz]

My only "coneless" ones are the muffler shop special and the pipewood.

hehe funny you should say that:

thrust, efficiency and fuel consumption are of no importance. I'm trying to make a stainless steel engine without using a welder and any cones would be a major pain

[Mike Everman]

Stainless pipe fittings are really expensive... Can you get 2" to 1" fittings of any type? Or 50mm to 25mm?

[metiz]

who said I was going to use pipe fittings? I'm going to use sheet steel

[Mike Everman]

....without using a welder...

If you're a little more clear about what you want, then maybe I can help, buddy.

[metiz]

sure thing, timmy

okidoki then. its kind of hard to explain but basically, I want to make 90 degree edges on all the tube ends so they stick out and then bolt them together and use aluminium foil as a gasket of sorts. I know the foil will melt but the idea is that it will form an airtight seal ( but realy, I don't have any iron based foil here so bare with me mkay?:) ) Some hurdles to overcome like what to do when both horizontal and verticall (respectively) edges meet but I think I have a fix for that as well.

*edit* like ye (squashed together, obviously)
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[Ghrey]

I had this water based "silicone" seal that had allot of clay, yah plain old clay, in it. It baked out a bit but it worked in a forge. Perhaps this would suit you better than aluminum.

Except for that awful smell for a couple of minutes. it worked well.



Sadly it was long ago,
and I have no brand info,
Labels True, should let you know.

[Eric]

Have you tried to form stainless into a flanged tube that can be bolted down the side like that? its not going to be fun or easy to make thats for sure.

If you can manage to make it like that, you could fold the flaps in half a few times making an almost air tight seal.

[metiz]

I have tried that actually, with a cone. it's very hard so thats why I want a coneless one. Can't say it won't be fun though, should we worth a few chuckles knowing that i have a working SS weldless engine. So could anyone please provide me with the plans? the engine is as straight forward (no pun intended) as they come

[larry cottrill]

... basically, I want to make 90 degree edges on all the tube ends so they stick out and then bolt them together and use aluminium foil as a gasket of sorts.

Something almost as easy to use for your gasket (though more expensive, naturally) and vastly better (probably) would be to get a piece of copper roof flashing -- you could cut a strip, fold in half in a vise, then drill slightly oversize holes for the screws to pass through. Considering the radiative capability of a flange like this, the red heat of the rest of the shell should be no problem. Snugging down the screws would mash it all the way together, and the softness of it would give you good gasketing. (I think ;-)

My Cyclodyne(TM) engine was to be welded up out of SS sanitary tubing (so-called "dairy tubing") -- the connecting flanges (of which I have several) come together as flat faces, but with a little "O ring" groove all around in the center of the flat face. This was to align a hard Teflon(R) gasket that had a corresponding ridge all around both of its flat faces. (I have no idea whether anyone reading will be able to visualize what I'm talking about. ;-) Anyway, I was just going to use a ring of heavy bare copper electircal wire sized to exactly fit around the annular groove. Never got far enough along to try it, though. I also thought of using hand-cut fibreglas mat gaskets, but what a hassle.

L Cottrill

[Zippiot]

Could always crease it together like they do to make a trombone (gotta love how its made). Though I think with common tools connecting one roll to another would be hard.

You can make an ez sheetmetal brake with a few pieces of flat stock and some c-clamps

[Mike Everman]

OK Skippy ,
Lengthwise seams will be a problem in my mind. Just to narrow down the build technique:
Do you have a lathe?
Do you have a hydraulic press?
Can you get thin walled ss tube?
Would you consider spot welding, or do you want to be pure bolt up?

I've done quite a bit of weldless design and build work. Hammering out a flange on the end of a tube works really well. Muffler flanges and gaskets work well. You can easily make flanged cones in a press with wrench sockets as die tools, but you have to clamp the flanged area really hard between heavy rings (I use a variety of large shaft collars for this). Look at some of what I mean, here is one with a Kazoo tail and a bolt on head, all weldless, experimental geometry that did not run:

Then there was a fully adjustable CC and tail (not built, but I did make some cones this way in the press):

and a detail of the front end...

There's a flare on the CC end of the intake that you could put the aluminum or ceramic paste between for a good seal. This one was going to use my $75 spot welder, though...
Here's a variety of things you can do with a press for the front end:

I've always wanted to design a pure weldless, since the beginning, and my first running motor was that; the original Kazoo!

[metiz]

OK Skippy ,
Lengthwise seams will be a problem in my mind. Just to narrow down the build technique:
Do you have a lathe?
Do you have a hydraulic press?
Can you get thin walled ss tube?
Would you consider spot welding, or do you want to be pure bolt up?

Hokay:
1 no
2 no
3 no
4: yyyyyyy-no. fully bolted or this design would have no use whatsoever

I'm actually planning on making it fully from SS sheet metal and I'm reasonably sure about the building technique (btw awesome kazoo ) the whole reason I want to go linear and coneless is to have the least amount of parts, ease of construction and fully "square" so making the printouts wont be such a pain.

[Mike Everman]

OK, fair enough. The trick is going from one diameter to another, obviously. Too bad you don't have a press. Mine was $100 I think. Best tool ever.