John,
The Squirrel sounds close enough to have some fun with. Make yourself a 1/4" Rosscojector and a tail sleeve and have a great time!
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Oh ... And as WELL as a rosscojector I'll also need to find the ability to build it (metalwork has never actually been my strong point - which I have regretted for years) and somewhere to run it.
Unfortunately I live in the most densely populated and most noise-sensitive part of the South East of England. I would expect the lynch-mobs to be hammering on my door within ... oh ... about 3 seconds of me firing up a pulse-jet in the garden.
Still, where there's a will there's a way, and I'm sure!
John
Unfortunately I live in the most densely populated and most noise-sensitive part of the South East of England. I would expect the lynch-mobs to be hammering on my door within ... oh ... about 3 seconds of me firing up a pulse-jet in the garden.
Still, where there's a will there's a way, and I'm sure!
John
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Rosscojector
Yes John, this is one of mine.
And yes, you will have to fit out your workshop with some heavy duty gear for this one.
A pair of "side cutters".
I have writen some longwinded versions of it through the forum, if you can find them. I couldnt even point you at a thread tho.
Heres the quick version.
- Steel fuel line, i use auto brake line in varying sizes, and can be copper, although its not as good.
- Cut the end off with a pincering action tool, such as side cutters, to form a very sharp edge with a tiny slit.
- Angle, think of the direction of flow you want, as well as mixing. The wider the slit (greater angle) the more gas and mixing you get from a particular diameter pipe, but the induction flow is less.
- "tuning" carburetor style. Once cut, the end of the fule tube is a nice smooth curve down to a very sharp edge. You can't see the slit, or even blow through it. With considerable pressure behind it, it will flow a very high speed, flat gas stream, "sucking" air down the slope into the steam, induction action. If cut carefully, this will be WAY too lean. Tune it with the same cutters across the slit, as close to the end as you can. Open it out a fraction at a time. The larger slit, less velocity, less induction of air.
With a little practice, patients and knowing what your listening for, you can start any engine with nothing more than this and a cig lighter.
It took me a whole day on a lathe to come up with this! Yes a lathe.
I cannot come up with any better air inducing nozzle than this for our particular purpose.
Small disclaimer...
Although great fun, and very usefull in its place, this is not optimum fueling for these engines! You can be tricked into thinking that an engine is running, although you have to take into account the "running with forced air".
You also have a comprimise... One of these injectors that will start an engine very nicely, will not run it to full power. It leans it out too much, and it will cut out early, although more often is the limiting factor of pressure available. They are very flow restrictive.
If you open it out to try to overcome this, then not only will it be a right pain to start, it wont be mixing well at all, and will flame out at about the same level.
Have fun!
Rossco
PS, your google search comment pricked my ears... ha, now i have a big head... two pages! EDIT, now i look its mostly a couple of things repeated in different places. Still...ha
And yes, you will have to fit out your workshop with some heavy duty gear for this one.
A pair of "side cutters".
I have writen some longwinded versions of it through the forum, if you can find them. I couldnt even point you at a thread tho.
Heres the quick version.
- Steel fuel line, i use auto brake line in varying sizes, and can be copper, although its not as good.
- Cut the end off with a pincering action tool, such as side cutters, to form a very sharp edge with a tiny slit.
- Angle, think of the direction of flow you want, as well as mixing. The wider the slit (greater angle) the more gas and mixing you get from a particular diameter pipe, but the induction flow is less.
- "tuning" carburetor style. Once cut, the end of the fule tube is a nice smooth curve down to a very sharp edge. You can't see the slit, or even blow through it. With considerable pressure behind it, it will flow a very high speed, flat gas stream, "sucking" air down the slope into the steam, induction action. If cut carefully, this will be WAY too lean. Tune it with the same cutters across the slit, as close to the end as you can. Open it out a fraction at a time. The larger slit, less velocity, less induction of air.
With a little practice, patients and knowing what your listening for, you can start any engine with nothing more than this and a cig lighter.
It took me a whole day on a lathe to come up with this! Yes a lathe.
I cannot come up with any better air inducing nozzle than this for our particular purpose.
Small disclaimer...
Although great fun, and very usefull in its place, this is not optimum fueling for these engines! You can be tricked into thinking that an engine is running, although you have to take into account the "running with forced air".
You also have a comprimise... One of these injectors that will start an engine very nicely, will not run it to full power. It leans it out too much, and it will cut out early, although more often is the limiting factor of pressure available. They are very flow restrictive.
If you open it out to try to overcome this, then not only will it be a right pain to start, it wont be mixing well at all, and will flame out at about the same level.
Have fun!
Rossco
PS, your google search comment pricked my ears... ha, now i have a big head... two pages! EDIT, now i look its mostly a couple of things repeated in different places. Still...ha
Big, fast, broke, fix it, bigger, better, faster...
[url=callto://aussierossco][/url]
[url=callto://aussierossco][/url]