Lady Anne Boleyn Rev07 Full Size Plan Drawings

Moderator: Mike Everman

larry cottrill
Posts: 4140
Joined: Sun Oct 05, 2003 1:17 am
Antipspambot question: 0
Location: Mingo, Iowa USA
Contact:

Lady Anne Boleyn Rev07 Full Size Plan Drawings

Post by larry cottrill » Wed Jun 13, 2007 8:23 pm

Here are full size plan drawings for the latest Lady Anne Boleyn iteration, Rev 07. The main change here is the redesign of the intake to use my new 'flattened front edge' method, as described a week or so ago in the Tools & Construction Forum. The intake shown was designed at 22mm ID - either 1 inch (nominal) SS sanitary tubing or 3/4 inch (nominal) EMT (rigid steel conduit) should come close enough to this ID to work. This intake design brings the intake in really close to the chamber, so if you want the intake CL truly parallel to the engine CL (as shown here), you need to "ding" the inner edge of the flair just a bit to make it clear the Middle Cone surface. This is indicated on the plans.

Engine mounting is intended to be at the extreme ends: A "Bukowsky mount" held by the spark plug at the front end, and light anti-thrash struts at the rear. Four small lugs will be provided at the rear end as shown to bolt struts to for any engine orientation.

I just showed the usual simple straight tube fuel pipe for propane vapor; builders always do whatever they want about fueling, anyway, so there's no point in getting fancy with it on the drawing. What's shown should work well if anybody wants to bother trying it that way. You could make a lemniscate spout with almost no effort, if better mixing is needed.

One thing missing is a full-size pattern for the intake fairing. I will post this on this thread as a separate drawing once I get it worked out. It is a very small piece, but will need careful cutting and forming to fit properly.

I have presented the whole plan, but since this is almost 26 inches long, few people will be able to print it full size. So, as before, I also give you three sections of it, which should each print out at no larger than 8.5x11 inches on a 96 DPI printer at full size. Just cut and paste to join them at the match lines for a complete full-size plan.

I am presently having a prototype of this motor built in .020 inch (0.5 mm, approx.) stainless (type 316 SS). Should come in at around 10 or 12 ounces total weight. Stay tuned ...

L Cottrill
Attachments
FWE_VIII_Lady_Anne_Boleyn_Rev07_full_size.gif
Lady Anne Boleyn Rev07 valveless pulsejet - complete full size plan. Drawing Copyright 2007 Larry Cottrill
(81.51 KiB) Downloaded 347 times
FWE_VIII_Lady_Anne_Boleyn_Rev07_full_size_03.gif
Lady Anne Boleyn Rev07 valveless pulsejet - full size plan Part 3. Drawing Copyright 2007 Larry Cottrill
(33.95 KiB) Downloaded 286 times
FWE_VIII_Lady_Anne_Boleyn_Rev07_full_size_02.gif
Lady Anne Boleyn Rev07 valveless pulsejet - full size plan Part 2. Drawing Copyright 2007 Larry Cottrill
(17.01 KiB) Downloaded 336 times
FWE_VIII_Lady_Anne_Boleyn_Rev07_full_size_01.gif
Lady Anne Boleyn Rev07 valveless pulsejet - full size plan Part 1. Drawing Copyright 2007 Larry Cottrill
(39.27 KiB) Downloaded 466 times

larry cottrill
Posts: 4140
Joined: Sun Oct 05, 2003 1:17 am
Antipspambot question: 0
Location: Mingo, Iowa USA
Contact:

New Intake Method for Lady Anne rev 07

Post by larry cottrill » Thu Jun 14, 2007 1:59 pm

Here is the new intake forming method drawing, revised to more accurately show how it would work for the Lady Anne Rev07 engine.

L Cottrill
Attachments
FWE_VIII_Lady_Anne_intake_forming.gif
New intake forming method drawing, revised for the Lady Anne Rev07 engine. Drawing Copyright 2007 Larry Cottrill
(16.37 KiB) Downloaded 291 times

ed knesl
Posts: 163
Joined: Wed Apr 13, 2005 5:27 am
Antipspambot question: 0
Location: Phoenix, Arizona

Lady Ann ...

Post by ed knesl » Sat Jun 16, 2007 12:29 am

Larry,
I like your latest engine a lot, I already cut paper patterns.
It should be a great engine for flying model.

One thing - it is fairly small and rolling the tubes of these diameters is a challenge. What would you recommend for scaling up the engine to get the intake diameter to about 30mm and the rest with it accordingly ?

Ooo, regarding your business plan, I believe that $7 for all that research
work is ridiculous. The inflation is rampant and people would have no
respect for such cheap stuff. I would put the price tag to about $35.
Additionally, shipping and handling $7. If anybody gets interested they would spend that money without much speculations.
Nowdays you get nothing for $7.

Ed
...Nobody is right, nobody is wrong...

larry cottrill
Posts: 4140
Joined: Sun Oct 05, 2003 1:17 am
Antipspambot question: 0
Location: Mingo, Iowa USA
Contact:

Re: Lady Ann ...

Post by larry cottrill » Sat Jun 16, 2007 10:19 pm

ed knesl wrote:Larry,
I like your latest engine a lot, I already cut paper patterns.
It should be a great engine for flying model.

One thing - it is fairly small and rolling the tubes of these diameters is a challenge. What would you recommend for scaling up the engine to get the intake diameter to about 30mm and the rest with it accordingly
Thanks, Ed! You ought to be able to roll the intake around a piece of 1/2-inch (nom. ID) water pipe, like the attachment in my hand below. However, if you think you must scale it up, either of the following methods should work:

I. 30mm/22mm = 1.36, so scale ALL the linear dimensions up by that factor. This should work fine, since the end corrections will stay "in scale" right along with the overall dimensions. The acoustic layout is perfectly scalable of course, as long as the diameter ratios stay the same.

II. A much more experimental method would be to scale ALL the IDs up x 1.36 but leave the lengths alone, giving the engine nearly the proportions of the much larger Lady Jane Grey. This should work, because the scale-up is fairly small and the end corrections will still be very close to right for the new dimensions. Note, however, that Mike Everman has warned that stubby engines will tend to have poorer TSFC than lanky ones. This also makes the intake pipe lower in Q, but the location is so far back (i.e. there is so much "transition space" ahead of it) that I can't imagine it not working well. At worst, might call for a little intake length tuning, a few mm one way or the other.

I'll bet that either way you'll have a running engine that will perform well, but of course I'd rather see you do it in the original size - much more friendly for powering a reasonable size model of some kind.

L Cottrill
Attachments
Cone_rolling_mandrel_crop1_small.jpg
My cone rolling rig - about 40 lb of concrete in the tin bucket at the bottom. The big end is in tight; the other side has interchangeable "attachments" as shown. Cheap, simple and reliable. Photo Copyright 2006 Larry Cottrill
Cone_rolling_mandrel_crop1_small.jpg (147.56 KiB) Viewed 16780 times

ed knesl
Posts: 163
Joined: Wed Apr 13, 2005 5:27 am
Antipspambot question: 0
Location: Phoenix, Arizona

Lady Ann...

Post by ed knesl » Sun Jun 17, 2007 3:56 pm

Thank you Larry,

I am cutting the metal ( SS 304) for the original size today.
Later I would scale up since I have a slip roller for easy work.

You mentioned scaling up all linear dimensions - the length of
each individual cones is also the linear dimension, isn't it ?

In the past I scaled up Chinese engines in proportion of 1.5/1.2
for diameter to length and it worked great.

Would you have any more exact ideas how to treat this engine
scaling ? It has been always an interesting subject and yes, Mike
Everman developed a great study. I just thought that some new discoveries may had been made since than.

Also, could you tell me more about this motor development, have
you run it thru Uflow ?

Thank you very much for all all the great work you always do !

Ed
...Nobody is right, nobody is wrong...

larry cottrill
Posts: 4140
Joined: Sun Oct 05, 2003 1:17 am
Antipspambot question: 0
Location: Mingo, Iowa USA
Contact:

Re: Lady Ann...

Post by larry cottrill » Mon Jun 18, 2007 12:29 pm

ed knesl wrote:Thank you Larry,
I am cutting the metal ( SS 304) for the original size today.
Later I would scale up since I have a slip roller for easy work.
That's the way - go for it!
You mentioned scaling up all linear dimensions - the length of
each individual cone is also the linear dimension, isn't it ?
Exactly - by 'linear' I mean scaling plan dimensions, not areas.
In the past I scaled up Chinese engines in proportion of 1.5/1.2
for diameter to length and it worked great.
Would you have any more exact ideas how to treat this engine
scaling ? It has been always an interesting subject and yes, Mike
Everman developed a great study. I just thought that some new discoveries may had been made since then.
Nothing really new and different. Scaling up is generally pretty easy - big engines are reportedly very forgiving about exact proportions. A lot has been claimed about volume ratios, but in the end it's the acoustic layout that gets them running. Everything else is optimization.
Also, could you tell me more about this motor development, have
you run it thru Uflow ?
UFLOW1D always and forever ;-) Graham's development of NUDiS is better, even simulating the explosion event over multiple cycles. But, if I get it to look good in UFLOW, it ends up looking good in NUDiS, too. Our friend James of Oz especially has gotten pretty good with NUDiS lately and is developing some good stuff.

This one is not a radical departure - just a quite intentional construction improvement over the earlier trial models.
Thank you very much for all all the great work you always do !
Ed
Thanks! I appreciate that. Make her roar, Ed!

L Cottrill

larry cottrill
Posts: 4140
Joined: Sun Oct 05, 2003 1:17 am
Antipspambot question: 0
Location: Mingo, Iowa USA
Contact:

Intake Fairing - Full Size Pattern

Post by larry cottrill » Thu Jun 21, 2007 3:56 pm

As promised earlier, a full-scale pattern for the intake fairing.

This pattern was meticulously developed by modeling full size in matte board and stiff paper. It should be quite accurate, at least for thin material (0.5 mm sheet stock) and 22 mm ID intake tubing. For slightly larger intakes, you will need to stretch it vertically a bit at the rear edge, or just resign yourself to welding slight gaps along the bottom edges toward the rear.

L Cottrill
Attachments
Lady_Anne_Boleyn_Rev07_intake_fairing_full_size.GIF
Lady Anne Boleyn Rev 07 intake fairing pattern. This will print full size at 96 DPI. Drawing Copyright 2007 Larry Cottrill
Lady_Anne_Boleyn_Rev07_intake_fairing_full_size.GIF (12.44 KiB) Viewed 16604 times

ed knesl
Posts: 163
Joined: Wed Apr 13, 2005 5:27 am
Antipspambot question: 0
Location: Phoenix, Arizona

Larry's L.A.B. Rev.07 plans

Post by ed knesl » Sun Jun 24, 2007 5:57 pm

Larry,

Here is the completed engine I have built exactly from your drawings.
All metal is 24ga SS 304, long seams and frond of the scoop are spot
welded, the rest was pulsed TIG.
A sleek design indeed !
Woun't be able to run it for a couple of weeks before I get out of the city.

Now we have to work on the luiquid fueling. I am playing with vaporisation now, so I might need to go back to your Chinese style
intake in order to get more clearance betw. intake and midsection
tubes. Would you post the dimensions for such installation ?

Thank you, it was fun to build it and the thing looks serious !

Ed
...Nobody is right, nobody is wrong...

larry cottrill
Posts: 4140
Joined: Sun Oct 05, 2003 1:17 am
Antipspambot question: 0
Location: Mingo, Iowa USA
Contact:

WIP Photos

Post by larry cottrill » Mon Jul 02, 2007 4:26 pm

Here are a few shots of what I've gotten done so far. The welding of the stainless version was done by Mr Jason Rittmiller, a student at University of Northern Iowa, contracted through Jim Russell Design of Des Moines, Iowa. Jim also did a fair amount of hand work rounding, smoothing, etc. on my roughly formed cones. I think this is a pretty nice outcome for their first shot at TIG welding Type 316 sheet only .020 inch (0.5 mm) thick.

The remaining shots show progress on my own welding of a mild steel model, showing how the intake pipe and fairing are supposed to work out. The intake pipe used here is 3/4-inch (nom.) EMT (rigid conduit), which is a little smaller than the 22 mm ID tube shown on the plans. Because of this, the fairing (originally cut from my pattern shown earlier) had to be cut down slightly to fit properly, but I was almost certain that would be the case. In the photo where I'm holding the fairing, the very thin weld between intake and chamber shell shows as a bright line across the rear of the port. Just to the right of it, the short fillet weld along the near side is also visible.

L Cottrill
Attachments
LadyAnneRev07_intake_fairing_placed_2_small.jpg
Lady Anne Boleyn Rev 07 mild steel prototype - side view of intake with fairing set in place. Photo Copyright 2007 Larry Cottrill
LadyAnneRev07_intake_fairing_placed_2_small.jpg (36.55 KiB) Viewed 16369 times
LadyAnneRev07_intake_fairing_placed_1_small.jpg
Lady Anne Boleyn Rev07 mild steel prototype - front quarter view of intake pipe with fairing in place (unfortunately, somewhat motion blurred). Photo Copyright 2007 Larry Cottrill
LadyAnneRev07_intake_fairing_placed_1_small.jpg (38.68 KiB) Viewed 16370 times
LadyAnneRev07_intake_fairing_1_small.jpg
Lady Anne Boleyn Rev07 mild steel prototype - front quarter view of intake pipe and port with fairing in hand. I had to trim the fairing slightly for fit, due to the slightly reduced intake pipe size. Photo Copyright 2007 Larry Cottrill
LadyAnneRev07_intake_fairing_1_small.jpg (55.19 KiB) Viewed 16374 times
LadyAnneRev07_SS_rear_2_small.jpg
Lady Anne Boleyn Rev07 Type 316 stainless prototype - three rear cones as fabricated by Jim Russell and Jason Rittmiller of Jim Russell Design, Des Moines, Iowa USA. Photo Copyright 2007 Larry Cottrill
LadyAnneRev07_SS_rear_2_small.jpg (49.62 KiB) Viewed 16372 times

Mitchell
Posts: 6
Joined: Mon Dec 04, 2006 5:56 pm
Antipspambot question: 0
Location: USA

Lady Anne Boleyn Rev07 Full Size Thrust Produced

Post by Mitchell » Mon Jul 02, 2007 5:44 pm

Hello Larry,

What is the expected maximum Thrust for this engine?

Regards,

Mitch

larry cottrill
Posts: 4140
Joined: Sun Oct 05, 2003 1:17 am
Antipspambot question: 0
Location: Mingo, Iowa USA
Contact:

Re: Lady Anne Boleyn Rev07 Full Size Thrust Produced

Post by larry cottrill » Mon Jul 02, 2007 6:30 pm

Mitchell wrote:Hello Larry,
What is the expected maximum Thrust for this engine?
Regards,
Mitch
Mitch -

I'm counting on 4.5 lb, or significantly better than 2 kgF. We'll see. Note that while others have gotten good Lady Anne builds, the only ones I've done before were front-loaded non-starters. This mild steel one is made to break the curse ;-)

Might have her ready to go by the Fourth holiday (this Wednesday). Stay tuned ...

L Cottrill

ed knesl
Posts: 163
Joined: Wed Apr 13, 2005 5:27 am
Antipspambot question: 0
Location: Phoenix, Arizona

LAB Engine pictures

Post by ed knesl » Wed Jul 04, 2007 3:02 am

OK, missing pictures of the finished engine
Attachments
IMG_0331.JPG
(188.56 KiB) Downloaded 215 times
IMG_0334.JPG
(187.76 KiB) Downloaded 255 times
...Nobody is right, nobody is wrong...

Mike Everman
Posts: 5007
Joined: Fri Oct 31, 2003 7:25 am
Antipspambot question: 0
Location: santa barbara, CA
Contact:

Post by Mike Everman » Wed Jul 04, 2007 5:37 am

hey, Ed, that is a sweet build! Makes me want to run up to northern AZ when you go!
Mike Often wrong, never unsure.
__________________________

larry cottrill
Posts: 4140
Joined: Sun Oct 05, 2003 1:17 am
Antipspambot question: 0
Location: Mingo, Iowa USA
Contact:

Lady Anne Rev07 Prototype

Post by larry cottrill » Wed Jul 04, 2007 2:29 pm

Ed, that looks fabulous! Beautifully built, obviously. She looks exactly as I pictured her in the drawing. I hope she really howls for you!

I would like to hear any specific comments you have on making the intake that way. Did you have to do much trimming of the fairing from my pattern, or did it more or less just "go right in"? I had to trim mine quite a bit at the top rear and the aft end of the bottom edges, because the slightly smaller intake tube required the fairing to be rotated lower at the rear to meet up with it. Also, I found that forming the D-shaped tube end was harder than I expected it to be, while forming the fairing turned out to be unbelievably easy. Any comments you have on these details would be appreciated.

Great job, man!

L Cottrill

Irvine.J
Posts: 1063
Joined: Mon Jun 05, 2006 4:28 pm
Antipspambot question: 0
Location: Brisbane, Australia
Contact:

Lady Anne Rev7

Post by Irvine.J » Wed Jul 04, 2007 2:52 pm

This is a damn fine build if I do say so.
I really am quite fond of that intake design Larry, something that comes to mind that I think I should say though.

On my website is a video of the HPX-D 30, in the second half look at the exhaust gas. Not only do you see a well developed breathing pattern at lower throttle, when the throttle is turned up high the exhaust really smashes into the join between the choke and reflector cone. (Link to my website below in the "Whats new" section) The quality of this particular video is not perfect so I'll try to upload a high quality one so you can see it more clearly. It's strange but I have a feeling that its not particularly "optimal" but its yet to be proven at all. What do you think Larry, on the reverse side one could speculate that breaking up the flow like that might actually be assisting in the induction of fresh air... when at full throttle on the high quality video you can really see whisps of blue rather then just a completely blue flame that looks like a mushroom... To try to put it into words imagine a blue nebular looking thing...

There is a noticeable "tone" difference when you throttle up that high which seems to be related to it hitting that cone join though...

I think this engine will run very well, please grab some video I'm really keen on seeing the flame ejection out of the intake and around that cone area...

One other thing...

USE A DOUBLE D
! It takes about 1 minute to cut, don't need to braze it just gently hammer it down the finger wont pop up at all.
http://www.pulse-jets.com/phpbb2/viewto ... c&start=15
Use it on this engine, right at the start. I found this engine in particular loves it, and you don't have to be as spot on with your injection location. For your first run, I advise to place the fuel spout EXACTLY half way down the intake, measuring along the top. You'll get her going no worries. Also, they like abnormally high starting air pressure, start at 35psi....and be patient. GOODLUCK, damn fine build mate. Very exciting stuff.
James- Image KEEPING IT REAL SINCE 1982
http://pulseairdefence.com
[url=callto://project42labs]Image[/url]

Post Reply