Has anyone used a STITCH Welder?

[Jim Berquist]

Years ago I built one from nothing more the a 24vdc solenoid , clamp and two batteries.

I should build one just to take photo's of!

You just set up a 24 or 48vdc solenoid with a rod connected to the working end. I just drilled a hole for the rod and placed a set screw. Placed in a PVC sleeve as so no contacts was exposed and working solenoid was safe. Each time you touch the work with the rod , rod will buzz and produce a arch. It takes about 3 seconds for the rod to start to flow. Then you do your work. You can control current by the travel of the rod. Placing a stop adjustment at one end of the solenoid . Short stroke (more current) long stroke (less current). As your working with a DC current, it is some what safe. As your converting it to pulsating DC, and get between the work and the rod, it will SAY HELLO!! With a 1/16 and or larger rod, I have repaired bikes, go carts, and small parts on my truck.
With a clean working surface and pre fluxed area, I've done things I thought couldn't be done!!!! I only have a 60 amp alternator on my van and it worked from the battery!

This is so simple it May be the anser to some of the newbee things and get some people started in construction. You do not need a big welder to make things!

I well build one and document. This is too simple!!!

Jim

[Mike Everman]

That is something I'd like to see, Jim. Faaaascinating!

[Jim Berquist]

I tried to find the solenoid today at work on the net. McMaster-Carr and Grainger did not have what I was looking for.

All you need is the type used for electric door dead bolts. DC only produces a ARC when contact is broken or opened. When you touch or contact the work, the solenoid pulls the rod from the work and produces a ARC. Then the spring load in the solenoid pushes the rod back to the work and the cycle repeats. The Freq is dependent on the stoke you have it set for and the spring load. 1/8 " to 3/16" travel worked good for most I did.

If I fail to find one , I will just fabricate one. Nothing more then a cylindrical coil with a sliding iron or ferrite core. Spring load and adjustable stops. RIGHT.

The only down side to the one I had was the vibration it produced in your hand. Made my hand and wrist Itch.

I googled "stitch weld" and the ones I found are BIG BUCKS. NOT the same thing! Mine must be the poor mans version.....HA!


Jim

[Al Belli]

Hi,

A commercially made stitch welder is inexpensive, see:

http://www.automotivesquare.com/sku19045.html


Al Belli

[Jim Berquist]

It seems that version uses a AC welder for the power source.. The key word was DIODE. That would cut the AC source down to half wave DC. Still 120 VDC. If it was a 120VAC unit, the voltage would be like 60 VDC. The one I build only used 12DC and depended on the higher current. With just a static battery I could burn for about 15-20 minutes. Hooked up to the van's battery engine running I could use up some rods.....

That one is just a attachment for a regular ARC welder. If I have a welder why would I want to build a welder? This one is for poor Beginners who want to get a start in things!!!!Lite duty. Gets the job done and can fit in a shoe box.


Jim

[Jim Berquist]

Gathering Parts and having problem with solenoid. Found one that may work but looks a little lite. May just wind one. Would be faster and not a big deal..

I will post some photo's with the sorry little camera I have when I have enough parts to see what it's about.

Parts gathered so fare:

1: 4 AWG wire for supply DC. (Scored from the scrap barrel at work)

2: Wire Brade to connect supply to the Rod end. (Moving Parts). (Scored from the scrap barrels at work )

3: 1" and 2" PVC to cover moving parts and Isolate Electrical connections. Also used to fabricate a handle or working end.....( Scored from the Peaces and Junk at work)..


More when I can! Jim

[Jim Berquist]

Still on the scavenger hunt! Not happy with the Solenoid. Looking for a large automotive starter type!!!! I'll get there!!! I may put two back to back common wired. Plastic bobbin wire is on,,,,NOT GOOD... Rod assembly end gets hot.....



Jim

[Jim Berquist]

Still on the Hunt! Been busy and will find one. Problem is every one has gone plastic core..........Need brase or Steele. ..Core....Jim

[Zippiot]

Can you explain one more time...how you hook up the whole thing? And is the arc using the 24v circuit or is the solenoid using the 24v system?
Just trying to see how it works in my head


I got a tiny solenoid from an old sprinkler and 2 big batteries from an electric lawnmower (and 2 from an electric scooter) would I be able to build a tiny version for welding tiny things?

Both battery types (2 from mower 2 from scooters) are 12 volts, but the mower batts are 20 amps/hrs and the scooters batts are 12 amps/hrs.

Just for fun, I have a mig welder in the mail to be here in a few days

[Jim Berquist]

Zip:

D.C. current will not Arc until contact is broken. You can not send 40 or 50 Amp from the Battery through the Solenoid. What you do is wire them in Parallel. There will be enough Resistance between the Rod and Work to Actuate the Solenoid and pull the Rod away from the work.

Then the Spring load in solenoid pushes Rod back to the work and Cycle Repeats. After about a second or so, You have enough Heat to flow the Rod.

Use a about 3" of flat braided ground strap to connect to the Rod end.

I'm looking for a solenoid that has a brass or steal sleeve. It gets hot!!


Jim

[Zippiot]

So would a 40 amp system actually weld thin steel (or other metals)?

If so I wanna make one of these, for years I wanted a welder and days before I get one I find ways I could have had one all along!!!

So wire the rod parallel to the solenoid, and sicne it is dc we want the negative as ground? Use standard welding sticks? How thick (I know that is all relative to what I am doing, but in general for thin mild steel)?

I'm really interested in this, if I ask any stupid questions please tell me, my mind has been fading recently...

[Jim Berquist]

Zip! Again a welder I are NOT! The only stupid questions, are the ones never asked!!!!!

Using 1/16 6011 rod I could repair Mini Bike and Bicycle frames. If I heated a peace of coat hanger wire and dipped it into borax and coated it good enough it worked fine as well. Some times I found that I could keep a better bead, if I pre fluxed the area to be worked.....When working with the van running, I could work with 1/8 rod. It took a lot longer to start to puddle and bead.....This is a toy wilder that can handle lite duty, lite work for cheap. Your going to stick rods , until you get the spring set right! Too much spring and rod will not pull back. To little and Rod may not keep the Arc. I don't know the Freq or cycle rate. I was close to 50-70 Hz maybe...
It takes some getting use to when you first start to use one. The buzz in your hand causes your hand to Itch really bad after about 2 or 3 minutes of running time.....

Jim

[Mike Everman]

Jim, I'm watching with great interest! This thing could make the "essential tools for the completely broke wannabe pulsejet builder" thread that I will start when this is fleshed out more!
All this talk of flux and borax, have you tried it on stainless.

[Jim Berquist]

Hi Mark:

No on S.S. Just Bikes , Go Carts and small stuff. All some form of Mild Steel.

I can't believe no one else have seen one. This is Old Tech stuff. 1974 or so learned of it from my naibor......We used a 12 VDC solonoide for a dead bolt lock like used for gates and cypher locks.....I just can't seem to find one..When I do , I will photo the assembly and submit for you.

I really like your Idea of the Poor Boy's Tool Box thing!!!!!! Call it something like that.

This is really old tech stuff and now days people want the newist and bestis......Some times the Oldist is the Bestis......

Jim

[Zippiot]

Something like this?

I have a 50 amp battery charger, but it says dont run the 50 amps more than 20 seconds. Would addidng a dimmer switch before the charger is plugged in allow me to turn down the amperage and run it longer? Or should I jsut run it from 2 car batteries in series?

I think since the amps would be constantly interuppted...and since the power would be turned down it could be "more safely" used for upwards of a minute.

The black thing that atatches the solenoid to the weldign rod is threaded, so it can be adjusted to change spring rate.