Weldless Pipeworks

[PyroJoe]

Here is a "L" engine. It runs about the same frequency as the 1" CC Logan. The run time is between 20-30 seconds.

The 1/2 inch tailpipe (36" long) functions partially as a draft pipe. I tried initially to have a 1/8 IPT "all thread" pipe in the cap, which would make it a 90 degree linear, but it runs/starts better with just a 5/16" hole drilled in the center of the 1" cap. The 1" NPT CC is a 6" long nipple. This into---> a 1" 90 deg. elbow: into ---> a 1" to 1/2" reducer.

To operate I usually sprits 4/5 shots of methanol into the 5/16" hole. position the tail vertical and light the cap. It will rev fast and run with occasional slowing down. At each slowing I shake it with vigor this usually revs it back into higher frequency.

I tested the 5/16 hole as a side port in a 1" logan. Making a "pipeless" side port. It seems to work with only a minor reduction in amplitude.

The "tuned" hole size for for these engines appears to be in the range of 9/32" to 3/8".

The "L" is fairly robust in running as I can use a glove to carry it around while running, shake it with prejudice, and it just doodles along reving and tapering to slow pulses.

Included is another cheaper version that has a 1/2 NPT elbow. It is a slight bit fussy compared to the 1" elbow.

[PyroJoe]

1/2 elbowed

[Mike Everman]

faaaascinating. how long is the tail?

[PyroJoe]

36" tail length.

1/2" by 36" nipple off the shelf at home Depot. I didn't trim anything off to tune it.

[PyroJoe]

This one has 2 draft pipes both 1/2 by 36" long. the nipple is 1" by 4" length. Hole size is 3/8. I think the hole size needs to be smaller (5/16?), it runs good but is lower in amplitude than the other ones.

[Mike Everman]

This is totally wierd and new. Very cool. Nothing to add, but very cool.

[PyroJoe]

Thanks,
I'll work on producing some videos. The digital camera is recording dark, It's tough to balance the right backlighting to see the flame and the engine.

[PyroJoe]

No flames showing on this one. It does sound like angry bumble bees. ha

I would like to thank Mark for his previous insight on the 1" pipe logans.
Would probably still be stumbling around in the dark.

These are strange animals, almost a cross between a jar and a VPJ.

I try relighting at the ending, sometimes they restart for another round.

[PyroJoe]

This one was fussy. I suspect it needs a smaller opening. The low rumblings suggest so.

[Mike Everman]

Wild. I think you are on to something. Who knows where this will go? Cool.

[Mark]

I've done several of the hole-in-the-wall designs too. I have a thick-walled 4 inch nickel plated brass sphere/part of a lamp that I've tapped and screwed a length of pipe into. It also does the angry swarm of bees sound. I too have made some really long lengths of pipe contraptions. It's something that comes naturally to you when you tinker with plumbing pipe, you've removed a spark plug or short piece of pipe and just burn off some remaining alcohol or something to see what it does. You find you try any combination under the sun just out of curiosity or until you tire of trying, hours on end, screwing and unscrewing all your possible combination of parts. ha
It is funny how you can get a strong rev and then it dies down and you shake or jiggle it/the remaining fuel or change the angle to get more convection and you can often get another energetic, erratic run-up. The amplitude is not as strong though as offered with a true side port duct/tube. Still it is an interesting sound, not like a jam jar.

[PyroJoe]

"You find you try any combination under the sun just out of curiosity or until you tire of trying, hours on end, screwing and unscrewing all your possible combination of parts. ha "

Well spoken. I only went through a few logic steps to make the "L" engine, but on the side I was building/trying the strangest things for hours.

Some times I would be trying 5 or 6 configurations an hour. Last weekend I ran out of fingers to light with. Each where raw or blistered, forget those trigger piezo lighters. They just don't last a half days testing. Even the BIC's only last a day when testing so many different setups.

[PyroJoe]

This was a logical step. It doesn't sound/appear that it made a difference in running. The tail pipes are From Bottom up: 18", 12", 6"=36"

I would guess the thrust to be closer to a jar than a PJ. Maybe twice the amount of a jar. The sound is also matched closely to a jar in amplitude.

[PyroJoe]

In past work with my smallest pipe jar, I remember it wouldn't sustain without a precision centered hole. While drilling the hole, I also machined the face of the cap. This helped the jar to sustain and run with vigor.

Also some where in the forums I also recall a telling that the intake is about 3 times as important in tunning as the exhaust.

To increase performance of this "L" type engine, I machined a precision centered hole and faced both the interior and exterior of the cap, I must say, this did improved the performance.

With this modification, when running in a level condition, the fuel will start "stacking" up on the interior of the cap. It often will start to mist and drip from the opening, killing the cycle. I installed a 1" pipe tee in place of the 6" nipple. I installed a threaded pipe plug the lower opening. Before adding the new cap, I packed the cavity of the lower section of the tee with the jelly from a Sterno can. The thought being the jelly would hold the alcohol and prevent fuel stacking at the opening.


The jelly didn't release enough alcohol while running to sustain a healthy cycle.


I found I can achieve longer run times by tilting the engine forward or back to shift the fuel to the cap or back near the elbow. It will change how rich or lean the cycle is. Also the longer run times and improved cap make the engine more difficult to hold. The exhaust pipe is now heating up at an increased rate.

[PyroJoe]

Staying inside, out of the rain this week. Here is a "J" draft engine run on alcohol. It is by no means a thrust engine, but still great fun. It is considerable safer than a "L" style engine, which can spill flame.

It retains fuel in the elbow close to the intake opening. The fresh air charge will splash into the fuel pool in the elbow when held at a slight angle. (fuel pool marked in blue) The upward elbow stops the fuel pool from stacking against the cap as it did in the "L" style. Less shaking required to keep it running at vigor.

All 1" hardware except for the 1" to 1/2" transition and the off the shelf 36" long 1/2" tail pipe. If memory serves the 1" straight pipe of the CC is 4" long. All standard hardware found at Home Depot.


Enjoy,
Joe