Odds and ends

Moderator: Mike Everman

Post Reply
Mark
Posts: 10933
Joined: Sat Oct 11, 2003 10:14 pm

Odds and ends

Post by Mark » Mon Feb 26, 2007 3:39 am

It is worth noting that the CM-6 spark plug and the Champion Y-82 will screw into a 1/8th inch NPT threaded hole completely. Also/conversely, the 1/8th inch nipples will screw the entire depth of the nuts about the size Eric is selling but not more. They will go 3/16ths into a 10mm nut before the threads lock up.
I often take out a 1/8th inch NPT nipple and replace it with a CM-6 or vice versa as needed, something you can take advantage of. Pictured are a few examples for your evening's entertainment. ha
Mark
Attachments
10mm and lamp nipple.jpg
10mm and lamp nipple.jpg (59.09 KiB) Viewed 6950 times
Logan nipple and interchangeable items.jpg
Logan nipple and interchangeable items.jpg (94.95 KiB) Viewed 6953 times
Last edited by Mark on Mon Feb 26, 2007 4:06 am, edited 1 time in total.
Presentation is Everything

Mark
Posts: 10933
Joined: Sat Oct 11, 2003 10:14 pm

Odds and ends

Post by Mark » Mon Feb 26, 2007 4:00 am

Lastly, I have a larger Logan that I use the 1/4 inch hollow pipe all-thread in the side port. And I can't offhand think of the spark plug thread that will fit the 1/4 inch pipe thread, but I have interchanged a nipple for a plug in this larger size too.
Awhile back I made a jam jar with a 1/4 inch NPT nippled snorkel and the weight of it on the lid acted as a sort of tuning fork, for if you thunked the bottom of the jar with your finger the lid would ring or make a quite audible tone like a gong. Just kind of strange.
Mark
Attachments
Nipples and plugs.jpg
Nipples and plugs.jpg (90.66 KiB) Viewed 6940 times
Presentation is Everything

Mark
Posts: 10933
Joined: Sat Oct 11, 2003 10:14 pm

Odds and ends

Post by Mark » Mon Feb 26, 2007 4:53 am

One thing I should mention is that NPT threads taper and the little lamp all-threads don't. They are refered to as "1/8-IP Pipe" on the package I bought today.
I found this tidbit, it's probably even more confusing to the metric people.
Mark
http://www.sizes.com/materls/lampFit.htm
http://www.antiquelampsupply.com/category/175/
Presentation is Everything

Mark
Posts: 10933
Joined: Sat Oct 11, 2003 10:14 pm

Odds and ends

Post by Mark » Tue Feb 27, 2007 1:39 am

Too boring to post but here goes. My biggest jam jar.
Attachments
Jam jars 006.jpg
Jam jars 006.jpg (95.83 KiB) Viewed 6800 times
Jam jars 007.jpg
Jam jars 007.jpg (90.82 KiB) Viewed 6805 times
Last edited by Mark on Sat Mar 03, 2007 7:09 pm, edited 6 times in total.
Presentation is Everything

Mark
Posts: 10933
Joined: Sat Oct 11, 2003 10:14 pm

Re: Odds and Ends

Post by Mark » Wed Feb 28, 2007 12:21 am

Mark wrote:I was playing with the little steel cup and found it is magnetic only at the rim where it is rolled. Then the largest object, a soap dispenser is only magnetic on the sides and where the rolled threading is on top. The bottom is not magnetic!
Then the cylindrical spice jar, obviously just a single piece of stainless steel is not in the least magnetic at the bottom, but is strongly magnetic on the sides. How weird, it must be that the stretching of the steel alloy has spaced the elements so as to cause them to be attracted to a magnetic. It was just a perplexing thing I came across last night while tinkering.
Perhaps some of you have some similar object that you will find only certain sides or surfaces are attracted to a magnet, yet is is made of the same material. Often it seems where the metal is stressed, stretched, or spun that it causes the effect.
Mark
I came across this idea at work today, and it answered/confirmed my observations I just happened to notice when holding a magnet next to my metal vessels.

"The most popular stainless steel is Type 304, which contains approximately 18 percent chromium and 8 percent nickel. At room temperature, the thermodynamically stable crystal structure of 304 stainless steel is bcc; nevertheless, the alloy's nickel concentration, as well as the small amounts of manganese (about 1 percent), carbon (less than 0.08 percent) and nitrogen (about 0.06 percent), maintains an fcc structure and therefore the alloy is nonmagnetic. If the alloy is mechanically deformed, i.e. bent, at room temperature, it will partially transform to the ferritic phase and will be partly magnetic, or ferromagnetic, as it is more precisely termed."
http://www.sciam.com/askexpert_question ... 414B7FFEB5
Attachments
Steel Mystery.jpg
Steel Mystery.jpg (48.95 KiB) Viewed 6851 times
Presentation is Everything

Mark
Posts: 10933
Joined: Sat Oct 11, 2003 10:14 pm

Odds and ends

Post by Mark » Sat Mar 03, 2007 6:35 pm

I wonder if this would gel methanol or ethanol too? Might be fun to make a blue or green or red jam jar fuel or some other combustion wonder with "Moon Blob". Interesting that it can be used in razors and water pumps - see informative video. ha
Mark
http://www.stevespanglerscience.com/experiment/00000167
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Polyethylene_glycol
Presentation is Everything

Mark
Posts: 10933
Joined: Sat Oct 11, 2003 10:14 pm

Re: Odds and ends

Post by Mark » Sat Mar 03, 2007 7:24 pm

Mark wrote:Too boring to post but here goes. My biggest jam jar.
I decided to post my big jam jar but don't try this at home unless you try it from a safe distance and a safe area. Mine really doesn't run very well, but it does chuff chuff chuff slowly. I need to modify it, maybe with a snorkelette. But don't forget, there is a lot of volume you are playing with and it's very loud, that first chuff/hiss. ha ha
To see it, just scroll up this page a few previous posts.
Mark
The specs.
http://www.kegs.com/slim14.html
Presentation is Everything

Mark
Posts: 10933
Joined: Sat Oct 11, 2003 10:14 pm

Odds and ends

Post by Mark » Sun Mar 04, 2007 2:13 am

I found these widgets today at the hardware store. They're not all that exciting but on occasion it is interesting to just situate/hold a snorkel over a jam jar to hear how it increases the sound/amplitude.
One of them connects the 1/8 inch tubing to another 1/8, (which is really larger than 1/8), and the other widget I bought connects or abuts end to end a 1/8 inch pipe to a 1/4 inch pipe nipple. The nice thing is is that you can choose how close or how far you want to hold your snorkel above the other or center hole of the jar because the silver widgets are threaded.
Here's some pictures for your keen interest. ha/yawn
Maybe they can be of some use to you in the future somehow, it's one more tool in the bucket of toys.
Mark
Attachments
Widgets 003.jpg
Widgets 003.jpg (103.4 KiB) Viewed 6753 times
Widgets 001.jpg
Widgets 001.jpg (106.15 KiB) Viewed 6754 times
Widgets 005.jpg
Widgets 005.jpg (103.05 KiB) Viewed 6755 times
Widgets 004.jpg
Widgets 004.jpg (103.19 KiB) Viewed 6757 times
Presentation is Everything

Mark
Posts: 10933
Joined: Sat Oct 11, 2003 10:14 pm

Odds and ends

Post by Mark » Sun Mar 04, 2007 2:40 am

I bought one of those copper water hammer arrestors and a few copper bells that fit over the narrow end of the arrestor. Just more bits you may come across to toy with. I can't decide where to make the cut in the arrestor. You can find shorter ones too at the store.
Mark

http://www.autoflohumidifiers.com/images/WH100.JPG
http://www.hgtv.com/hgtv/rm_plumbing_pi ... 02,00.html
Interesting hammer tidbits
http://www.kirsner.org/pages/articlesAlt.html
http://www.terrylove.com/mini-rester.htm
http://demolab.phys.virginia.edu/demos/ ... mo=1F30.21
http://www.physics.brown.edu/physics/de ... f3021.html
http://www.heatinghelp.com/newsletter.cfm?Id=203
Attachments
Copper segments 003.jpg
Copper segments 003.jpg (102.26 KiB) Viewed 6745 times
Copper segments 002.jpg
Copper segments 002.jpg (102.26 KiB) Viewed 6746 times
Copper segments 001.jpg
Copper segments 001.jpg (101.58 KiB) Viewed 6748 times
Presentation is Everything

Mark
Posts: 10933
Joined: Sat Oct 11, 2003 10:14 pm

Odds and ends

Post by Mark » Mon Mar 05, 2007 1:38 pm

The little widgets I bought that connect snorkels together have a tendency to jump up and down rather vigorously on top of a jam jar lid. It reminded me of the little gunner man on the putt putt boats that are made to look like he is firing a machine gun, if you recall. I think he or the guns rather rode atop the flash pan to cause the jerky effect but I don't know. The few tests I did, the jar ran but it was rather comical seeing the apparatus jump up and down like some wind up toy. I had a few flameouts too.
Jam jar lids are just too thin and flexible I think for snorkels.
However, it might be fun to try some sort of recoiling exhaust tube or recoiling combustion chamber on some such combustion device. Imagine using the motive force of the exhaust tube for some gain of some sort. For even just a toy would be something to study or play with.
Mark
Attachments
Widgets 004.jpg
Widgets 004.jpg (103.19 KiB) Viewed 6698 times
Last edited by Mark on Tue Mar 06, 2007 1:19 am, edited 1 time in total.
Presentation is Everything

Mark
Posts: 10933
Joined: Sat Oct 11, 2003 10:14 pm

Odds and ends

Post by Mark » Tue Mar 06, 2007 12:54 am

Remote control putt putt boat, oh the concentration, the steady hand one must have. ha
Mark
http://www.nyblimp.com/shows/philly.htm

This looks like my cup of tea, the creative spirit, something different.
http://www.geocities.com/davidvwilliamson/sub.html
http://www.sciencetoymaker.org/boat/g_e_flogel.htm
-"Some people believe that coil engines are not as powerful as diaphragm engines. This is never proved however. In contrary, there are even indications that coil engines are more powerful. They do not loose energy by the continuous activating of the diaphragm that produces the pop-pop sound."

Some vintage putt putts, kind of cute designs.
http://www.oldtoyz1.com/boats.html
http://www.oldtoyz1.com/moreboats.html

Once again, the fancy machine gun effect.
http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid ... boat&hl=en
Presentation is Everything

Mark
Posts: 10933
Joined: Sat Oct 11, 2003 10:14 pm

Odds and ends

Post by Mark » Tue Mar 06, 2007 3:35 am

"Strangely, copper is softened in exactly the way that steel is hardened--by heating to red hot and quickly quenching in water. As copper is worked (bent, for instance) it once more starts to harden and must be annealed again."
(From the wooden shoe fellow in talking about winding the coil of copper for the engine to avoid kinks)

And then...
Just a site I found on the net on annealing copper...
"In annealing of copper, the heating is the important part. The rate of
cooling is immaterial.
Whether you allow it to cool naturally or drop it into water makes no
difference to the final softness.
Traditionally, we drop it into water because that's what we were told, but
it is not necessary. It's only a matter of convenience
Try it both ways and see for yourself."
JW²
Perth W.A. Oz
http://www.steamengine.com.au/ic/faq/an ... opper.html

And from Wiki. ha
"In the cases of copper, steel, and brass this process is performed by substantially heating the material (generally until glowing) for an extended period of time and allowing it to cool slowly. In this fashion the metal is softened and prepared for further work such as shaping, stamping, or forming."
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Annealing_%28metallurgy%29
Presentation is Everything

Mark
Posts: 10933
Joined: Sat Oct 11, 2003 10:14 pm

Odds and ends

Post by Mark » Tue Mar 06, 2007 3:50 am

Fun fact.
"Recently an examination of the shattering of Prince Rupert's Drops by the use of extremely high speed video (or so called "stop motion" techniques) [1] done by Dr. Srinivasan Chandrasekar at Purdue University has revealed that the "crack front" which is initiated at the tail end, propagates in a disintegrating drop within the tensile zone towards the drop's head at a very high velocity (~ 1450-1900 m/s (or up to ~4,200 miles per hour))."
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Prince_Rupert%27s_Drops
Presentation is Everything

Mike Everman
Posts: 5007
Joined: Fri Oct 31, 2003 7:25 am
Antipspambot question: 0
Location: santa barbara, CA
Contact:

Re: Odds and ends

Post by Mike Everman » Tue Mar 06, 2007 5:07 am

Mark wrote:Fun fact.
"Recently an examination of the shattering of Prince Rupert's Drops by the use of extremely high speed video (or so called "stop motion" techniques) [1] done by Dr. Srinivasan Chandrasekar at Purdue University has revealed that the "crack front" which is initiated at the tail end, propagates in a disintegrating drop within the tensile zone towards the drop's head at a very high velocity (~ 1450-1900 m/s (or up to ~4,200 miles per hour))."
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Prince_Rupert%27s_Drops
It's a virtual velocity, like the crossing point of a pair of scissors. Make one right and you could get that apex to go light speed!
Mike Often wrong, never unsure.
__________________________

hagent
Posts: 413
Joined: Sun Feb 06, 2005 9:01 pm
Antipspambot question: 0
Location: Simi Valley CA

Glass Drop

Post by hagent » Tue Mar 06, 2007 5:43 am

I'm not sure if I would want to be holding that in my hand when it broke!
Hagen Tannberg

Post Reply