Which Compressor Wheel KJ66/ KJ66 BUILD FROM SCRATCH PROJECT

mag · Post by **mag** » Thu Feb 01, 2007 6:17 pm

Hey guys, can someone tell me in which KKK Turbo the Compressor 2038 is used? The model Number of the charger?

Thinking of building a kj66 and have to get the compressor wheel.

Made a Turbine wheel for it already, need some finishing touches but looks not so bad and revÂ´s like hell if blown with shop air. ;-)
Filing it was a tough job but what should I do, had so much time and nothing to do...

Greetings, Mag

paulj · Post by **paulj** » Thu Feb 01, 2007 8:27 pm

looking at this website http://www.flyhi.org.il/jet.htm
the part number is: KKK5326 123 2038

if you goto this site http://www.helptoday.co.uk/
and ask them they should have the 2038 compressor in stock.

hope this helps

Paul

mag · Post by **mag** » Thu Feb 01, 2007 10:50 pm

Ok, thanks!

But, does anyone has an idea in which car a turbo is used which uses the 2038 wheel? Most of the time the ebay sellers dont write the part numbers. And I dont want to buy the wheel from a shop which takes like 100$ for it.

Better buy a used turbo for way less money and take the wheel from it.

mag · Post by **mag** » Mon Feb 05, 2007 5:53 pm

Hey guys, anyone has a good dealer for the 2038 wheel? The cheapest I found now will be 144â‚¬ Thats realy expensive I think.

Does anyone knwo a better source for the wheel? Im from europe so no US sources please.

I hope you can help me!

jacques Vandevelde · Post by **jacques Vandevelde** » Sun Feb 11, 2007 10:33 pm

i have one 2038 . also a mouth in black nylon for it.
Give me your e-mail address;
Jacques
Belgium

mag · Post by **mag** » Mon Feb 12, 2007 5:37 pm

You have a PM :wink:

mag · Post by **mag** » Mon Feb 12, 2007 6:00 pm

New picture of the now completed Wheel. Got the blades profiled now, but was a pain to do that, took some time.

Just atached some bearings to it with the bolt and driven it with 10 bar shop air, spins good and is guite balanced. Just have to balance it with the shaft but iÂ´ll not get the shaft until next week.

Ash Powers · Post by **Ash Powers** » Mon Feb 12, 2007 7:15 pm

Pretty impressive turbine wheel there, Mag. I can certainly appreciate the amount of time you have in it - how many hours do you suppose? What material did you make it from? It looks like you made it from a thick plate of metal rather than using a piece of sheet and heating/twisting the blade?

mag · Post by **mag** » Mon Feb 12, 2007 8:25 pm

I made it from a thick plate of tool steel, took me about two days but I made it in about one week, so it was not that kind of a work, spending two days in a row would have been a pain...

I Dont know if it withstand the heat and rpmÂ´s for long time but would at least run 1 min or so. And if the engine does so, I would consider buying a real wheel casted and balanced by a professional company.

What do you guys think, should I harden it? And if so, in water or oil?

Afterwards I think I should better had used some stainless for it, but this one was the only material I had on the hand at the time i decided to build something new...

And for the heating and bending thing, thats something everyone can do, I want something special, handmade from a full part of steel... *lol* :D

jacques Vandevelde · Post by **jacques Vandevelde** » Mon Feb 12, 2007 9:59 pm

remarkable ! beautiful wheel . But i think it may not turn higher than 60K revs/minute. For safety matters. For 60000+ revs , use inconel Cast wheels from Dieter Albisser. ( http://www.dalbisser@bluewin.ch )
Jacques
Belgium

mag · Post by **mag** » Tue Feb 13, 2007 6:43 pm

I wouldnÂ´t run it on full power with this wheel. The thing is, at the moment I just want to build a KJ66 with the lowest cost possible. So I rather make most of the parts by myself or get them as cheap as possible. If the engine turns out to run with this wheel and the wheel gets damaged during operation I would consider buying a cast wheel. But for the moment I just want to build as cheap as possible.

Unfortunately i donÂ´t have a lathe and canÂ´t make the critical parts. But I have a friend for which IÂ´ve build the big thermojet and in turn he is making the shaft and tunnel for me so the only part which is critical now is the diffusor system. But that could be milled by hand like the turbine wheel, just have to get the outer dimensions lathed by someone. The vanes could be done by hand then, not that problem for me.

I tryed to hard solder the fuel injectors today but my soldering sticks are for 900Â° C and the little brass capilars are melting just away at this temp. So I have to get some 600Â°C sticks tomorrow. The bigger brass pipes (3 and 3,8mm) are not melting so fast when used with the 900Â°C sticks.

What would be the better material used for the combustion chamber, could I use just plain mild steel or would it melt/oxidise very fast? Or should I better get some 0,5mm stainless?

Next week the building starts full time as I have more time then.

jacques Vandevelde · Post by **jacques Vandevelde** » Tue Feb 13, 2007 7:52 pm

combustion chamber: very hot temps in it, so, 0,5 mm stainless indeed.
jacques
Belgium

mag · Post by **mag** » Thu Feb 15, 2007 6:41 pm

Hi folks, I finished the fuel injectors today and must say, hardsoldering of the little brass capilars was not so easy as i thought it would be... Had to buy some expensive silver solder with flux for about 8â‚¬ for one stick. But that worked fine! 720Â°C is just right for that brass tubing and for the point that i never hardsoldered something before Im quite happy with the thing that came out of it. DidnÂ´t have a picture at the moment but I will post one next week together with the CC then.

Is there any NGK sparkplug which would be small enough for the kj66? Like 10mm thread but very short body? I have only the long 10mm ones and these would look like shit on an engine like the kj66.

Irvine.J · Post by **Irvine.J** » Fri Feb 16, 2007 3:06 am

Sadly, I've been to about 5 places and went through the ENTIRE RANGE of NGK spark plugs, I grabbed a camping chair off the shelf at the auto store and went through them ALL. Looking to see which one fits your common nut threads. The only one I could find was the match of the NGK D8EA witha M12x1.25 nut. (Which I think the 10mm one with long thread your talking about, its certainly the thinnest thread of them all anyway:)

The D8EA has a long thin thread on it though, and goes a little too deep into the engine. It has not impacted starting as yet, its just a little heavy, and looks silly.

I saw a range of motor mower sparks that would be perfect, but unfortunately finding a nut to fit has so far been a totally fruitless.

There are people around who specialise in making nuts and bolts with huge ranges which is where I'm taking my motormower spark plug to next for my flight engines.

mag · Post by **mag** » Sat Feb 24, 2007 12:19 pm

Made some other parts during the last week. CC is not ready yet, still have to get some tubing for the sticks.

NGV has to be lathed to dimensions as well but that will be done until next weekend... :D

More parts will arrive during the next week i hope. Thanks to Mr Vandevelde again!