I have just tried my first test run.
Thank you for all the info here
Jet runs great till i shut off the starting air, then it shuts down.
Where should i start ?
More propane?
new member
Moderator: Mike Everman
new member
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Re: new member
Looks like a nice build. is that the Beck-tech advanced fwe?
if it is, the flare, or the cone actually, is way to big. stick to the plans as close as possible
copy paste from other thread:
1 did you flare the intake?
2 did you build acording to specifications, leakfree?
3 are you using a restrictor on your gas tank? aditionally, what kind of gastank are you using? A little camping bottle wont cut it
4 what kind of injector are you using, how far is it in?, what's the internal diameter, straight or slit i.e rosscojector
if not build according to any plans, what are the dims?
if it is, the flare, or the cone actually, is way to big. stick to the plans as close as possible
copy paste from other thread:
1 did you flare the intake?
2 did you build acording to specifications, leakfree?
3 are you using a restrictor on your gas tank? aditionally, what kind of gastank are you using? A little camping bottle wont cut it
4 what kind of injector are you using, how far is it in?, what's the internal diameter, straight or slit i.e rosscojector
if not build according to any plans, what are the dims?
Quantify the world.
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larry cottrill
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Re: new member
I agree -- nice build, from the photo. Since this is your first try, I would ask you this:
Are you starting with the LEAST amount of air that will make it buzz? One of the most common mistakes for beginners is thinking they need to provide LOTS of air. This is wrong -- it gives you a starting setup that provides too much fuel for the engine to handle, after the air is removed. Set the air pressure so you can just barely hear it howling in the pipe. Then, gradually bring on the propane until she starts to buzz loudly. At that point, you should be able to kill air and spark.
It's wonderful to see someone building with a permanently mounted starting air tube.
L Cottrill
Are you starting with the LEAST amount of air that will make it buzz? One of the most common mistakes for beginners is thinking they need to provide LOTS of air. This is wrong -- it gives you a starting setup that provides too much fuel for the engine to handle, after the air is removed. Set the air pressure so you can just barely hear it howling in the pipe. Then, gradually bring on the propane until she starts to buzz loudly. At that point, you should be able to kill air and spark.
It's wonderful to see someone building with a permanently mounted starting air tube.
L Cottrill
Re: new member
Hi Larry
thanks for the staring tip.
I built this based on the Reynstodyne Fokus from your 2004 plans. I didn't flatten intake tube to form a venturi
I'm using a 30# bottle of propane with a 1/4 turn ball valve to control flow to jet.
The intake flair is 1 11/16 od. Will if change anything if i cut it down to 1 1/2 od?
Main difference is id of the main tube. Plans call for 1.25 id. Closest i could find was 1.357
I used a car ignition coil and battery, capacitor and SPST relay for starting which is working well.
I have had it running with starting air off, but it is really sensative and shuts down often
thanks for the staring tip.
I built this based on the Reynstodyne Fokus from your 2004 plans. I didn't flatten intake tube to form a venturi
I'm using a 30# bottle of propane with a 1/4 turn ball valve to control flow to jet.
The intake flair is 1 11/16 od. Will if change anything if i cut it down to 1 1/2 od?
Main difference is id of the main tube. Plans call for 1.25 id. Closest i could find was 1.357
I used a car ignition coil and battery, capacitor and SPST relay for starting which is working well.
I have had it running with starting air off, but it is really sensative and shuts down often
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larry cottrill
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- Joined: Sun Oct 05, 2003 1:17 am
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- Location: Mingo, Iowa USA
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Re: new member
Using a larger pipe diameter means you'll probably need to lengthen it some. Make a sliding sleeve that you can slip over the tail end. It does not have to fit snugly, but you do have to keep it from creeping (lock it on with a hose clamp). Start with an extra 1/2 inch (13mm) and gradually work it out.
A main pipe that's a little too short will give you an engine that quits after it heats up just a little while. The fact that it will keep running briefly means you are pretty close, probably another inch or so will do it. Don't worry about the flare being a little out of spec. Likewise, the flattening I've used successfully isn't much, so that won't have much effect on the tuning if the other dimensions are close. The flare actually forms most of the venturi action by itself; I typically no longer flatten intake pipes on my designs.
You're almost there!
L Cottrill
A main pipe that's a little too short will give you an engine that quits after it heats up just a little while. The fact that it will keep running briefly means you are pretty close, probably another inch or so will do it. Don't worry about the flare being a little out of spec. Likewise, the flattening I've used successfully isn't much, so that won't have much effect on the tuning if the other dimensions are close. The flare actually forms most of the venturi action by itself; I typically no longer flatten intake pipes on my designs.
You're almost there!
L Cottrill
Re: new member
thanks again Larry