www.pulse-jets.com

Plans for the M40, a 40 pound thrust Chinese style engine. Read the pdf carefully and build according to specifications. You can lengthen the intake by 2mm or so to give you a bit more room to hammer the flares, however, the plans are ok as they are. The pdf, the drawings and the print-outs were all done by Joe "GRIM" Deacon. Many thanks!

Ha great!!

I happen to have the bike on the background. Why do I post this here???

ace_fedde wrote: I happen to have the bike on the background. Why do I post this here???

Ah! I remember, the engine is missing. I'm looking for engine type: M40-2: Fedde

Hi Metiz and Grim

Just a word to say thanks for all your hard work to produce these plans and share them on the forum.

Well done guys

Viv

I started to build him.

Thanks Viv, (just saw this , been busy) theres quite a bit of work in the drawings especially the templates , hope they are useful to someone ,

Hi Barry welcome , please let us know how your build goes,

Joe

I make already 2 pieces....The head with a sparkplug & the cone after the combustion chamber.I'am waiting for the sheet rvs that I command.

SOMEBODY PLEASE TELL ME HOW TO MAKE THE CONE'S!!!!

It stays a really hard work for me to make them.I have a roller machine turned by hand.But they are never nice round..........and they misform by welding.
Every pule-jet I make is very hard word & they are never beautifull!!

Barry wrote:I make already 2 pieces....The head with a sparkplug & the cone after the combustion chamber.I'am waiting for the sheet rvs that I command.

SOMEBODY PLEASE TELL ME HOW TO MAKE THE CONE'S!!!!

It stays a really hard work for me to make them.I have a roller machine turned by hand.But they are never nice round..........and they misform by welding.
Every pule-jet I make is very hard word & they are never beautifull!!

als de buizen vervormen na het lassen kun je ze altijd weer recht hameren. als de buis bijvoorbeeld ovaal is geworden kun je een houten, vierkante balk gebruiken om het ovale gedeelte weer recht te hameren. Voordat je gaat lassen kun je ook proberen de buizen zelf al wat ovaal te drukken in de andere richting zodat de vervorming bij het lassen ervoor zorgt dat de buis weer rechtkomt.

als er deuken of oneffenheden in de buis zitten na het rollen, kun je bijvoorbeeld een bezemsteel gebruiken om de deuken eruit te krijgen en een stuk hoekijzer om de overdreven bochten eruit te hameren.

Heb je foto's van de onderdelen waar je het moeilijk mee hebt?

For people who want to build this engine with steel with a diameter different from 1mm, or for some reason don't want to use the patterns, here is a pdf file with the angles for the intake Done by GRIM

Hello Guy's,

So far I'am already.Now I gona to make the holes for the intake's & so I weld them.Than I weld al the rest.
Than just make that stupid BIG cone!!!But I will cut him into 3 pieces,so it will be much easier to rool them.
Here a picture from where I'am now.Sorry for the ugly weldings,but I'am not a good welder , but after some sanding there is nothing to see anymore.



Greetings
Barry

Barry,

Looking great!

Barry wrote:Sorry for the ugly weldings,but I'am not a good welder

Don't worry, you're not the only one

Fedde

Nice work so far!

Good work man, she's shaping up nicely! I can't help but notice that you have convexed (dished out) the endcap. No worries though, won't make a lot of difference. As for the welds: better then mine!

@Metiz : what's "diched out" ????

The big cone is also ready & welded.......All my muscles are very hard right now.

But big disaster......I did something wrong with the exhaust,he is 162mm.Now I have to cut the piece and do again.But that will be not for today.
here a picture.



And this is the equipment that I have for my hobby's: