Calculating top speed on ice...

[Johansson]

Finally my friend managed to bring me my memory stick with the video clips from the last run, it only took a couple of weeks...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7AvpZ1NMe4o

It is really close to running on liquid only now, but I will have to be somewhat restrictive with testing from now on since the hunting season has begun here in northern Sweden. For those not familiar to the bond between the north Swedish man and his hunting I can only say that I would probably be shot or at least rolled in feathers and tar if I would test the engine while the hunt is on...

[metiz]

Haha heating the propane tank with fire - what could POSSIBLY go wrong!

Looks like you're having some good fun out there. You had some attention to at about 2:20. Good stuff, can't wait to see the "on ice" test of that thing

[milisavljevic]

Hejsan Anders!

Great video, thank you for sharing here.

Finally my friend managed to bring me my memory stick with the video clips from the last run.

And yet another man decides that life without balls is not a life worth living... A wise(r) friend.

Ask Anders to explain!

It is really close to running on liquid only now.

Check your email. You have most excellent news from Chile on the new starting improvements.
We will get the video posted this week over on Joe's thread, and the drawings are all complete.

Cheers!
M.

[Mike Everman]

Looking good, Anders! I have to say that I ran away from my computer screen when you played a flame on the tank to heat it. Yikes! Looks like you split a seam on the cc in that first run.

[Johansson]

Looking good, Anders! I have to say that I ran away from my computer screen when you played a flame on the tank to heat it. Yikes! Looks like you split a seam on the cc in that first run.

He he, my fellow assistants took shelter behind my Audi during the "pressure enhancing procedure"...

Seriously, the bottle still had ice on it and I kept checking the bottle temp with my hand while heating it, so I would probably have been in greater danger if the bottle had been standing in the sun a couple of hours.

The flames on the underside of the CC are from the aluminum tape wrapped around the preheat coil catching fire, no leaks yet although the engine has flaked heavily in some places. I will try to squeece another run out of this engine before I retire it.

[Johansson]

It´s been a while since I worked on the kick, but today I went down and built the seat. Later I will oil the wood so it will be a tad darker than it is now, but that will have to wait until I´ve decided what colour the frame should have.

[Johansson]

I didn´t like the idea of making the new engine in 1mm stainless by hand so I bought a 1000mm slip roll today, even though it is some chinese crap it should do for me.

[Eric]

I hope you just plan on using it for the slip roll and limited brake work, after 3 attempts of cutting thin stainless the cutting part is dead.

Keep the geared side tight so you dont get any tooth slipping, and whatever you do, dont oil the rollers

For rolling stainless, you dont want to follow the 'normal' technique of rolling it a little bit, tightening down, and repeating, or the piece will work harden until you cant bend it, before it gets half way done.

Its best if you can roll the part in 1-2 shots to avoid hardening. More than that and you start to get into trouble. It will take some practice to be able to tell by eye what radius it will roll, by how tight it is.

Eric

[Johansson]

Thanks for the advice, I´ll have to roll some test pieces first then before I start on the stainless. I will go for 0.7mm SS instead of 1mm after Fricke told me that his slip roll (same brand) broke when he tried to cut 1mm, the quality seems to be very low.

0.5mm would be even easier to roll but I don´t know how difficult it is to TIG weld. Is there any problems with material strenght when you go as thin as 0.5mm?

At this point I am starting to regret that I bought this slip roll, for a few bucks more I could have ordered a better slip roll without a cutter and bender built into it...

[metiz]

0.5mm would be even easier to roll but I don´t know how difficult it is to TIG weld. Is there any problems with material strenght when you go as thin as 0.5mm?

Do you mean with the actual engine? If your welds are sound, you shouldn't have any problems. HOWEVER when building big engines like that you must be cautious about "implosions" on the vacuüm part of the cycles. I learned that the hard way

[Eric]

Yea its always a good Idea to purchase individual pieces of equipment rather than the 3 in 1 combos.

.5 mil will crush itself flat in those large diameters. .75 mil would be about the minimum I'd recommend.

Slip rolls are useful for straight sections, and very gradual cones (if the sliproll works properly), but for the sharper transition cones they are more trouble than they are worth.

[Johansson]

Ok, so 0.5mm is too thin for engines of this size. I will try a piece of 1mm stainless that I have at home and see if it is possible to roll that thickness on the slip roll.

[Johansson]

I´ve found that one of the lower rolls, the one that is adjustable, is not rotating at all. Is it supposed to be like this? If so it is an extremely stupid design...

[Fricke]

The two rolls in the front should be rolling they are connected to each other by the gears on each...
The single roller at the back is free moving... At least that is the way mine are...

The only way to see if your roller is good for 1 mm SS is to test with a sheet the same size as the biggest cone... On these cheap and really badly made 3-1 machines 0.5 mm SS is on the edge... Even 1 mm plain sheet metal is up there on what it can handle...

Find a friendly sheet metal shop and ask them to do the pieces for you... A small donation for the coffey jar will make wonders... *lol*

[Johansson]

Ok, then I have a good reason to return the damn thing.

I guess that I should have sticked with making the cones by hand, it takes a while longer but time is cheap...