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Plan Drawings: Canless Fo Mi Chin II for Non-Shavers

PostPosted: Thu Jul 14, 2005 5:23 pm
by larry cottrill
I know this is what many of you have been waiting for. Here it is: a Fo Mi Chin II clone that should appeal to those of female persuausion or guys too young to shave, or maybe somebody who likes the basic design but just doesn't want to mess with trying to weld to a paper-thin steel can. This one is officially named the Reynstodyne FMCII(TM) in honor of its Fo Mi Chin roots.

Now, why would you want to build one of these? I'm so glad you asked. First, the engine is simple and can be built easily from 1 mm or thinner sheet steel. Second, the original Fo Mi Chin II has been declared particularly "sweet running" by no less than Bruno Ogorelec after independent testing [though he was not able to rave about it being particularly easy starting, for some reason]. Then, it is a very light and compact engine. AND, it achieves something few Reynst breathers can boast of: A small cross-sectional footprint. This engine can be put anywhere a Dynajet will fit [though I have not described any way of liquid fueling it]. But, all in all, it's a very small and convenient engine form to play around with.

There should be nothing really tricky about building this mill for anyone who is a competent metalworker and weldor. There are only two cones to form, and both are fairly small. The front "dome" cone can be styled as either the "classic" form with the plug mounted low, or you can use the FWE front dome instead, with the plug right at front dead center. Your choice. You should be able to do the whole works for ten or fifteen US dollars and a few hours of meticulous labor.

This engine should start and run exactly like the original Fo Mi Chin II, and might out-perform it slightly, since the rear cone of the chamber is smoother and better formed. Obviously, you could do a stainless version out of thinner material, if you don't mind forming the tailpipe and intake parts out of flat sheet.

Have fun!

L Cottrill

re: Plan Drawings: Canless Fo Mi Chin II for Non-Shavers

PostPosted: Thu Jul 14, 2005 8:05 pm
by steve
you should post a link to this in the "looking for plans?" sticky at the top of the valveless section.

come to think of it, you should put all of your plans for engines that have been confirmed to work on the sticky as well!

Re: re: Plan Drawings: Canless Fo Mi Chin II for Non-Shavers

PostPosted: Tue Aug 02, 2005 7:33 pm
by larry cottrill
steve wrote:you should post a link to this in the "looking for plans?" sticky at the top of the valveless section.

come to think of it, you should put all of your plans for engines that have been confirmed to work on the sticky as well!

Done.

L Cottrill

re: Plan Drawings: Canless Fo Mi Chin II for Non-Shavers

PostPosted: Sat Aug 20, 2005 6:16 am
by hagent
Hi Larry,

Did you ever get this one running? Any specs on performance?

And where do you buy that antenna tubing?

Thanks,

Hagen

Re: re: Plan Drawings: Canless Fo Mi Chin II for Non-Shavers

PostPosted: Sat Aug 20, 2005 7:51 pm
by larry cottrill
hagent wrote:Hi Larry,
Did you ever get this one running? Any specs on performance?

No, I didn't build this one, since I built the prototype Fo Mi Chin II on which it is based. The Fo Mi Chin was run successfully by Bruno at Burning Grape, and he called it a very "sweet running" engine. That's as good as it gets for "performance figures" on that one. This one is my re-design for those who don't want to hassle with welding onto a shaving cream can. It is as close to identical to the prototype in terms of internal dimensions as I can get it, so there should be no reason to doubt that it will run well.

Go for it!

And where do you buy that antenna tubing?

Try Menards, Home Depot, Porter's Do-It Store, etc. It is painted a sort of bronze or "antique gold" kind of color, and comes in 5 ft and 8 ft lengths, I believe. However, you have to waste about 5-6 inches of each end. It costs around a dollar a foot. It is mild steel, well under 1 mm in thickness, with a welded seam. It cuts like cardboard with a good hacksaw and welds very nicely using mild steel rod.

L Cottrill