I dont know when I will have time to make a FWE calculator, sorry :)
The fuel probe is positioned so that a sheet of paper can be slid between the flare of the intake, and the edge of the fuel probe. It is right even with the edge of the intake flare, not the intake cc junction.
I tried the escopette position and it didnt start, just lots of bangs and pops. The way gas flows is definately different from an escopette or the likes.
Oh yea you might be interested in my attempts to photograph the gas flow in my lockwood. I took wet silica casting sand and coated the interior of the engine, unfortunately the flash of the camera at night time didnt show the shiny little sand grains as I hoped, but it did turn the engine into a sand blaster. I probably need some sort of strobe light connected to the camera, and behind the gasflow.
With the chinese, at least the one I downloaded, It has a small fuel probe sticking through the side wall, and then a starting air attachment in the position that i have my fuel probe set up. It may well be a multi purpose engine such that you could start it on propane with that injector, and then switch to liquid fuel. He could of just gotten a chinese valveless with no documentation and then just figured the one was an air attachment.
The intake tapers down to 3/8" at the CC. It is the same lenght of my last steel prototype, 1 inch shorter than original dimensions. I also ran the engine at 40 degrees F back a few days ago. The temperature of the engine has absolutely nothing to do with its running characteristics, within reason. The other prototypes wouldnt even run at below 5 degrees with spark plug going and the torch heating the side wall, so it dosnt have anything to do with the torch preheating. The other engines would glow red hot, and if the engine can start up in cold weather at cold temperature the 40 degree difference of air temperature cooling the outside compared to 1000 degree engine heat is negligible. Even though the steel engines were hot you could hear that the fuel wasnt being mixed properly, that it would run really ruff, and after a minute or so quit entirlely. The stainless prototype runs perfectly smooth at these tempereatures, and shows no sign of wanting to quit.
It by no means is the nicest looking FWE yet either! :) I just didnt take pictures of the Stainless Mark II and III and IV yet, each being an advancement in welding technology/quality. Mark V will be entirely tig welded, fusing the metal together and polishing the seam. The Mark III - IV are very carefully mig welded with the seams polished down to be level with the rest of the piece, giving the appearance that the engine is made from seamless tubing, I then take the CC / tailpipe as one piece and put it on the lathe and use 600 grain sand paper to regrain it all to one direction.
Let me get this straight, you want me to make parts thinner than 24 gauge stainless, and then you are going to oxy weld it.... without a henrob 2000.... At the moment I dont have anything thinner than 24 gauge, depending on how the tig welding goes I may buy some 26-27 gauge. Email me at my yahoo address ERJABE007@yahoo.com
with exact dimensions of what you want. For some reason on my website my email on every page changed to ERJABE @ yahoo . net instead of .com