All right, I am slow as winter molasses, but we've just about got it. I'll have a few pictures before the end of the week. The mount lugs are welded on and aligned as precisely as I can get them. It all looks pretty good, at least to me.
I may not have described the fuel/air pipe setup very well. The air pipe (steel) will have a long, straight lower section parallel to the engine axis. This will be slid forward through two guide rings welded to the left engine mount. The tube will extend slightly forward of the chamber front end, but can be shortened and bent outward after welding, if desired. The only attachment of this pipe will be small welds at each of the two rings. The fuel tube will be 1/8-inch copper, and will be installed in the air pipe. The bottom end will be curved up out of the way, for unhindered welding of the air tube to the rings. Once those welds are done, the bottom of the fuel tube can be brought down to run forward, more of less parallel to the long leg of the air pipe, or cut back and curved outward as desired.
In every gem there is a flaw ;-) Here's one: Because of the way this engine is put together, the rear of the chamber cone is not perfectly round, even though it is cut off square to the axis. The reason is the two welds at the sides of the intake 'spade'. Because of the stiffness added by these welds, the rear opening is slightly pear-shaped - what I might call 'acorn' shaped. I hope this will show in the last photo I shot, so you can see what I mean. This would create a problem if your tailpipe was heavy walled pipe or something, but with the thin tubing recommended, you would just have to tap it lightly in a couple spots with your ball peen. I might be able to get it closer to circular if I can figure out the right technique.
This defect is very slight - in fact, if you just butt welded the tailpipe on, the weld itself would probably cover it. But, I want to get you to use the technique of making a slightly flared end so that it self-aligns onto the cone, since I think that's the simplest way to have a beginner get it right. The flare just gets blended in all around after initial tack welding. There would be no such error in a Short Lady kit - it's entirely due to the way the Sveldt Lady intake gets built on.
Speaking of the intake, the flare is only about 10 mm in front of the seam you'll be welding between the cone and tailpipe. With modern techniques, will there be weld splatter that could damage the flare while working that close in? If so, I'll recommend making a U-shaped sheet steel shield to go around the cone to hide the flare while welding. What do you think?
Another detail: I will provide a rear tailpipe support formed out of 1/16-inch SS welding rod. This will be made to provide the right height to align the tailpipe vertically out near the rear end, and can be left on as a tailpipe brace on the finished mounted engine. It will be a slightly loose fit around 1.25-inch OD tubing, and will be the correct height if the mounting holes for it are carefully located. You would tie it down to the base with a couple of small wood screws or whatever. How does this sound?
So: What you will do is make a base out of flat wood and a sheet aluminum shield to cover the wood surface. I'll provide dimensioned drawings for the base and shield, including screw layouts. You will draw a centerline down the middle of the wood face and locate the four holes for the main mount lugs and the two little holes for the tail brace around this centerline. That means you will also drill six holes in the aluminum shield. Probably, you will also be making a steel sheet metal shield to protect the intake flare, as described above. Then, you will cut and flare (and probably, slightly re-shape) the front end of the tailpipe tube. You'll slip the tailpipe brace onto the tube and flare the rear end (unless you want to be cautious and start out with it a bit overlong). You'll mount the engine front end assembly with four #10 or 3/16-inch (or 4 mm) bolts or screws, with the aluminum shield sandwiched between the engine and base. Then, set the tailpipe roughly in place and secure the tail brace with two small screws. Carefully fit the front end of the tailpipe onto the rear of the cone, blocking the rear end so it won't slide back. Drop the flare shield into place, if used. Verify the tailpipe alignment, and tack weld in four places, about 90 degrees apart around the seam. Let cool, and remove all the screws so your engine can be moved around, and then make four more intermediate tack welds. Next, with the flare shield in place, finish weld by alternating between opposite sides while welding the 1/8 circumference gaps (this way, you should end up with near perfect alignment of the cone and pipe). Next, you'll verify alignment of the fuel tube and slide it into place through two guide rings provided. Get the outlet end lined up perfectly in the center of the flare (as seen from the top), and shim and wire it in place, then tack weld at the two rings. Remove the shimming and do a final check of alignment, and re-bend the forward end of the fuel pipe to bring it out in front of the engine dome. Finally, re-mount your engine onto the wood base with the four large and two small screws, again using the aluminum shield. That's all there is to it.
We're getting close. All I have left is the fuel/air tube and its guide rings and the SS tailpipe brace of exactly the right height. Once I'm satisfied with all that, I'll ship it out to you. Watch for posted photos in the next couple of days.