www.pulse-jets.com

Any advice how to get the stainless steel strainer off the mold?

http://www.fabcode.org/2009/07/05/how-c ... so-flimsy/

http://www.fabcode.org/2009/07/01/remarkable-progress-on-my-homemade-ramjet/ My progress so far, just wondering if the off-course cut is a severe mistake that will interfere with smooth operation of the ramjet. And if butane is okay. I plan to use a hair dryer to blow air in and spray the butane in ...

That's an axial fan - a fan that blows air parallel to its shaft axis. "Centrifugal fan" is an engineering term for what most people call a "blower", but also covers an "impeller" (like the little spinner inside a leaf blower). Either one can be made in a high volume and/or high speed form, but of ...

Any fan that provides enough flow at a reasonably high speed should work. Axial fans will have a lot of torque (twist) to the output flow, so on these you should provide a reasonably long "flow straightener", even if just crudely put together from a bundle of tubing scraps. A centrifugal fan probab...

Think I'll skip that. I made this for fun and I am not prepared *now* to spend unnecessary money on this construction

And I don't have a vacuum cleaner that blows or a leafblower.. will a really really powerful PC 120mm fan hooked up to a 12V battery work? Hmm.

I like the diffuser except for the rolled region at the front. Remove that part completely, and hammer the edge outward to form a SMALL flared intake -- just a few mm long x a few mm outward from the basic curve of the "cone". True, a flared inlet will take away a little of the overall diffuser rat...

Okay this is my flameholder and my diffuser. Any comments howsoever? Like, anyway my diffuser/flameholder can be improved, should the flameholder go [ or ] (intake from left, exhaust to the right).. etc.. :D http://i41.tinypic.com/b7ce12.jpg http://i43.tinypic.com/oadyfl.jpg http://i41.tinypic.com/9...

I just thought of something omg.

After JB welding the diffuser to the flameholder and combustion end of the ramjet there is simply no way to take it apart and make adjustments? So if I did something wrong I gotta re do from scratch?

Don't worry about following the exact specs -- it was all guesswork to begin with, anyway. Roughness and/or bumpiness inside the diffuser could be a problem, but I wouldn't be bothered by it until you've tried it. If the diffuser action is poor, you'll probably see some rough combustion, or maybe c...

I'm almost done with the diffuser, but the thing is that the cut is not perfectly straight. It goes up a little then down a bit, so it's uneven and bumpy. And also I did not follow the specifications on the maggie muggs design page, does this mean it won't work?

Okay this is beautiful. After the first crooked cut, I start again on another fresh area of steel.

Now I have like 3inches of straight cut. It's beautiful.

Okay I cut 2 inches in an hour last night but it's sort of crooked.

Oh god it's damn hard to cut it straight though I have a line drawn there to guide the cut. I think 1/2 inch will be wasted, the remaining 1.5inches can be fixed by using JB weld I hope :S

Exactly. You just "inch your way around" until you've completed the cut. The last little bit is difficult, because of the instability of the almost-cut sections that are no longer fully locked together. L Cottrill Okay I bought a saw that can cut metal (according to the storekeeper) and some diamon...

Well, I agree my description wasn't too clear. What I'm saying is, you DON'T cut clear ACROSS the curve (like sawing through heavy pipe); you only cut down the NEAR side, until you get all the way round. Each forward stroke cuts a bit, then after you cut down a little, you rotate the piece away a l...

Make sure you use a NEW hacksaw blade and take it slow. Once you get the cut started, cut all the way AROUND the piece, NOT across it. It might help to notch the line before you start the cut with the sharp corner of a small half-round file. Your hacksaw cuts on the FORWARD stroke (if you have the ...