| From : |
Mark |
| Date : |
2003-07-19 00:57:27 |
| Subject : |
"Shocking" developments, positive, negative and high tension |
Mark wrote :
Mr. Murphy and his laws struck today. Fooling around today with my Tigerjet was uneventful. I couldn't get it to start. It was terribly hot and humid today in Florida. To make matters worst I had my neighbor come over to see it run, he was up on his roof installing a satelite dish. So sadly, I took it apart and studied it with my magnifying goggles. Seems there is a lot of play in the reed, you can move it up and down on the face more-so than a Dynajet petal, let along center the petals over the holes, there's no alignment dot like the Dynajet.
So I put my Dynajet in the vise on the stand and it came to life and my neighbor said thanks for damaging his ears. Now my stainless steel strapping that I put on the Dynajet expanded after glowing red hot and I only ran the jet for a 10 or so seconds. So after the jet cooled, I noticed the slop and slidding of the exhaust tube in the sleeves of the two straps.
What else could fail you say? Well, my swell on/off switch that is similar to a coffee pot on/off switch, it just rocks up an down like a teeter totter took an arc tangent, it started shorting out at the switch, what the f*$@, I really liked that switch. Studying a wiring diagram from an old Dynajet/buzz coil article on gasing up, flying, etc, it shows the positive from the battery goes through a simple on/off switch to a contact on the buzz coil. The negative from the battery intersects a wire from the ground of the jet to the other contact on the buzz coil. The high voltage wire goes to the top of the spark plug, simple enough, you learn quickly not to touch that wire.
My question is does it matter that the negative from the battery intersect the ground, (which goes to a contact on the buzz coil or would it be alright to just put the negative to the buzz coil contact and soilder another wire to the same contact which would run to the ground or body of the jet??? Why would the diagram have the negative intersect the wire from the jet body to the negative contact on the buzz coil in the middle of the wire and not at the negative contact of the buzz coil? Does it matter and if so why?
So I could hear the short buzzing in my switch and fiddling around with it, it got me pretty good, as evidenced by that startled feeling you get when electricity goes through your fingers.
Oh, I started the Dynajet again latter with a simple gas grill electronic, potted in epoxy circuit spark unit that goes tic, tic, tic, if you hold the button down, it's a feeble spark, but it jumps well over a half inch and the unit runs on a single tiny 1 1/2 volt AAA battery. The unit is very small and it was all I could do to get the Dynajet to start with it but I did succeed, this was just a test to see if I could get the Dynajet to start with a cheapo spark unit. It took me several minutes to get the Dynajet started with it, try as I might with all the love and pampering of an air compressor and sensitivity.
Lastly, I decided to fire up my 3 inch plumbing pipe troglodite. It runs on methanol which is often easier to get the mixture right. So I finger pump sprayed a little methanol up the tail end, without any air from the compressor. I leveled the fuel height right up to the metering jet in the throat of the jet. Then, using the half-ass, tic, tic, tic single triple A battery, that wouldn't even catch with the Dynajet lean or rich until several minutes of moral fiber, my home-made stone-age jet went bang on the first tic and it was off and running in my sweltering garage. I guess I ended my day on at least this happy note. It's neat to not have to use the air and spark at the same time, just a single wimpy tic did the trick, once again. This is the first time I have used the epoxy ticky tic unit on my clunker, before I have always used a simpler piezo single tic start method.
Methanol prevailed today.
Mark |
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